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1992 Man O' War Empire Fleet Games Workshop Citadel Pro Painted MOW Ship Galleon

EUR 371,43 Buy It Now 4d 14h, EUR 14,07 Shipping, 14-Day Returns

Seller: hygienicporridge (5.369) 100%, Location: Portsmouth,, Hampshire, Ships to: Worldwide, Item: 142130699804 Condition: Used, Condition: Reconditioned item, see listing description., Brand: Games Workshop, Type: Warhammer, Options: Specialist Games, Further Options: Man O' War, Miniatures / Books / Other: Miniatures, Paint Options: Painted, Citadel: Model, Man O War: Fleet, Naval Battle: Galleon, Painted: Model, Pro Painted: Empire, Imperial Greatship: Warship, Imperial Wolfship: Squadron, Wargalley: Game, MPN: 0412/7, Details: Miniatures may be Lead or White metal, some parts may be plastic or resin. Items will be carefully and professionally packaged in bubble wrap and sent in a Jiffy bag. Metal miniatures are stripped (unless sold as New or Painted), so you can see exactly what you are getting. The picture shows the standard of the item that you will receive, likely not the actual one that you will receive. The picture may show a painted item so you can see what the figure can look like with time and effort. I try to get all items reconditioned back to what they were when originally sold. Any lead rot, it's binned. Damaged or poorly cast items are either binned, or if sold then they are clearly labelled as damaged, as people may want these for conversions. Books are sold as Reconditioned, if they are second hand, or New if they are mint.Additional pictures may show the reverse of item but you only get one of what is shown in the main listing picture. If additional pictures show other items then they will be included. The listing may state "Dwarf 7 Dwarf Dwarves" this means that the original catalogue description was Dwarf 7 and the other descriptors are so people searching can find what they want. Please read full description for exactly what you will receive though, and please be aware that bases are usually not included unless shown in the picture. Item received may be darker than shown, as the camera flash can make the item look brighter. Sorry, but I don't take offers on the price. Please don't contact me asking to buy items cheaper than shown, because if I start to, then I'll be inundated with different people E-Mailing me, which it's nice to chat, but I'd never get anything done. Not that I'm big business, it's just me in the back room. I do not sell fakes/copies. I wouldn't want to be ripped off myself, and wouldn't rip off others. I've been in contact with Games Workshop in the past, for their advice over this, I will report people who do, and will continue to do so. Fakes are theft. People who do so are stealing, and make peoples collections worthless. If you see it, report it. COMBINED POSTAGE OFFERED: Please use the basket and then request the combined invoice that will save you money. If E-Bay won't let you request an invoice, use E-Bay.co.UK & not E-Bay.COM or other E-Bay sites. If unable to use the basket, commit to buy each item BUT DO NOT PAY, wait, and I'll send an invoice to you. Also some mobile device Apps don't allow it as they show less options on the page, if you use a PC, then it likely will. Postage price includes the protective packaging and combined postage savings usually notice at 3 items or more. Please only pay the discounted postage invoice. If unhappy with the postage cost, please contact me, prior to paying, to discuss. Higher value orders will be sent signed delivery, this may also be dependent on the country and buyer ratings. PLEASE CONTACT ME BEFORE LEAVING ANY BAD FEEDBACK. Items are sent out the same or the next day. Unfortunately I have no control over rare postal delays, please be mindful of this if leaving low star ratings. Thank you. Check out my shop for quality, hard to find, original items available worldwide. The shop links in this part of the listing will show more items for sale than other links or shop icons elsewhere on this page. SHOP LINK: Hygienic Porridge Miniature Emporium Thanks for looking.1992 Man O' War Empire Fleet Games Workshop Citadel Pro Painted MOW Ship Galleon. Designed by Norman Swales.There are 19 models in total in his Empire fleet. The flagship, which is the large Imperial Greatship, 6 Imperial Wargalleys, in 2 separate squadrons, and 12 Imperial Wolfships, in 4 separate squadrons. PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THE WOLFSHIPS ARE ALL PLASTIC. Please also be aware that the masts on the Man O' War ships always were incredibly fragile, you'll note some flagpoles are slightly bent. This can happen due to room temperature and the weight of the miniature itself, when stored in a foam case. These will be very well wrapped. I'll be sending them in foam or wrapped in bubble wrap (perhaps both!), and then placed in a cardboard box with packing chips in it. Good for sending, but not for continual gaming due to the time it takes to unwrap for gameplay and then rewrap them nice and safe for transport. On receipt you will need to "bow out" the main sails as the packing will flatten them slightly. Use a pencil to do this and that way they'll look like they have wind in their sails. I have added Base weight beads to each plastic miniature, which are Lead. If you don't know what I mean, they can be seen here:http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=142075639364&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT#ht_3063wt_918These add additional weight to them thus they remain in place easier. I have also also put in Neodymium magnets (one for each ship, two for the Imperial Greatship). These are N35 6mm diameter by 2mm deep Neo magnets. I feel that these are just the perfect size to grip effectively but not too much to be difficult to remove from a transport case or to whip together and cause damage to models. All have been glued in with the same polarity upwards, so they will not snap together and adhere to each other, thus cause issues on the gaming table when models get too close to each other. A lot more thought went into that, than should really be needed. They've also been glued in with an extra strong form of cyanoacrylate superglue and the bottoms painted in matt black enamel just to make them look nicer. I like things to be bombproof. Now you can use a steel tool box which they will then attach to. These 1st edition Man O War miniatures were made for this as many of the miniatures brought out even have a hollow for the magnets to go in. You can use Neo magnets with a thin carbon steel shim or (also called steel foil, steel sheet or steel paper) on your carriage trays, but it rusts, so you'll need to coat it with a non waterbased hard undercoat. If you are using carbon steel shim, degrease it prior to painting, or any paint you put on will just not get a good grip and will lift off. This is because of the oil on the rollers, that is needed to manufacture the carbon steel shim. Get the right shim, don't buy stainless steel, it's more expensive and the Neodymium magnets will not grip to it well, if at all. Please be aware that the thinner the shim, the more expensive it can get so to go a little thicker means you save money. I'd advise to buy it on a roll, rather than sheets of it, to save on wastage. The thinner shim steel can be cut with scissors, confirm with the seller first, tell them what you want, and they may even send you a few off cuts to test your magnets grip on. I don't advise the magnetic sheet type magnetic material for this as it does not have the same grip and hold. You may instead wish to just go out and buy a steel tool chest. Toolboxes are relatively cheap, and excellent to protect magnetised Man O' War ships, but be aware that magnets can still slide, so ships may nudge each other. I like KS storage, but you'd have to be very careful about the size of the compartments as you'd want the foam sides to pinch the sides of a miniature ship to stop it moving about. Even the weight of the miniature itself can put pressure on the flagpole.It's always difficult to state how good someone's paintwork is, so I've taken the best pictures that I can. Pro Painted (meaning professionally painted) is a term that is overused on E-Bay. A professional painter is someone that makes a living doing it. So that doesn't mean that they have to do it well, as a painting service could churn out a huge amount of airbrush sprayed paintjobs, such as some army painters out there. I'm not saying that people working for that painting service or studio do not have talent for figure painting, just that they have to paint to what the market wants, or what the individual customer wants to pay for. That may well be mass pre-painted armies. Different people are happy with different standards, and a lot of it is in the eye of the person that perceives the artisans finished painted miniature. Some people are happy with a very basic paintjob be it paint brushed or airbrushed. I would use the term Pro painted for a level of skilled paintwork that I would not put the item in paint stripper, as the artists paintjob is just too good for that. At a certain level of quality it passes a pivotal balancing scale point, that it is unlikely someone else will take the time, effort and have the skill or patience to paint that model to a higher standard. An artist is someone that produces an item that is aesthetic, to them or others. Painted miniatures that are above the level that I'd strip back cover a wide field. A well known standard is Games Workshop's Golden Demon. There are three levels, Bronze, Silver and Gold, but even that can come down to people's perceptions of art, as some years Golden Daemon can be surpassed by the prior years, due to the level of that years entrants, and what is considered artistic at the time. Fashion changes what is considered art, and it may come down to what is popular at the time. Many different painting techniques can be used for figure painting, from simple ones for shading such as drybrushing, highlighting, washes and any weathering. Also certain advanced painting techniques such as Non Metallic Metal (NMM) or the layering and feathering blending techniques, using a wet palette. Toning, outlining and edging can add substantial time to a project as can any little details on the miniature to add individual character. Various quality paints can be used, either enamels or the more popular acrylic mediums, as well as different formulations of inks and varnishes. When you buy a painted miniature, be it a studio painted commissioned piece, exactly how you specified it, or something that just happens to be what you want, you are paying for three things. The materials used (be it the miniature itself or just the paint, inks and basing materials), the painters skill and most costly, their time to complete the project. I think people see a pre painted miniature and think, "hmmnnn, that's a bit of money," but possibly they only see the cost to actually buy the miniature itself (which is another add on cost) rather than all the hours that went in to create it, from start to finish of the project. The invested time in getting that figure to that high standard is its inherent value, but the real value for some is in the enjoyment of using it in gameplay, or having it admired on the shelf.Personally I see a good part of the unseen cost going into the preparation of a gaming miniature. I can spend nearly an hour filing a 28mm figure and washing off any oils from my hands ready for spraying on the undercoat. For metal miniatures you have to remove flash, file off the mould lines and remove any runoffs that crop up in the moulding process. Plus, if it's multiple parts, there is the drilling and pinning all the separate pieces. To drill and pin multiple parts for assembly can take hours on larger miniatures. Then there's use of any filler needed for gaps or damage to moulds such as voids or breaks. For plastic it's easier to glue parts together but there's still removing it from the sprue, scraping any mould lines off, positioning and filling gaps. Any further sculpting or conversion work can add many hours to a project. There are artists out there speed painting miniatures to an acceptable standard on their commissioned work. I can't speed paint, as I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and it can take me 8 to 10 hours to paint a single 28mm miniature, plus if you really start putting nice detail on the base, then that adds to the time taken. As with anything in life, the longer you spend on something, the better it will turn out. All those hours for any project cost money, so you only have to look at what you would earn per hour, and start to add it all up. How much is your time worth? The artist has chosen good solid colours and the the sails, as always, really make these gaming pieces. There are highlights on the black and oars, and the red has had a wash on it as well. These ships have a couple of coats of varnish on them, I believe a gloss and then also two thin coats of matt varnish to ensure the saltwater doesn't get at them. I do feel that these are painted to a really nice standard, personally I'd prefer that the whole fleet was all metal, but you'll get a really good game out of them. I do note that mould lines can be seen on the metal miniatures but is in keeping with the lines of the ships. I mention it as I like people to be aware of what they are buying. If you are unhappy on receipt, then there will be no issue on them being returned, as per E-Bay guidelines. IF YOU BUY PAINTED MINIATURES PLEASE BE AWARE THAT PAINT FADES IN SUNLIGHT. THIS CAN OCCUR OVER A PROLONGED TIME AND CAN GO UNNOTICED UNTIL IT IS TOO LATE. I PERSONALLY FEEL THAT INK WASHES, ANY MANUFACTURER'S INKS, ARE NOWHERE NEAR AS GOOD AT RETAINING THEIR COLOUR AS PAINT IS. IF KEPT AWAY FROM SUNLIGHT A PAINTED MINIATURE WILL LAST A LIFETIME, BUT IF DISPLAYED IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT (EVEN BEHIND GLASS) FOR PROLONGED PERIODS THEN THE ULTRAVIOLET RAYS (UV) WILL AFFECT THE PAINTED COLOURS OVER TIME AND INKS (PERHAPS IN ONLY A FEW MONTHS) WILL JUST FADE AWAY EVEN QUICKER IN COMPARISON. IF YOU ARE TO DISPLAY THEM SOMEWHERE, DON'T ACCIDENTALLY RUIN THEM OVER TIME. IF YOU DO USE A CABINET (TO KEEP DUST OFF AS IT CAN GET IN ALL THE DETAILING) THEN HAVE IT IN A SHADED CORNER UNDER UNNATURAL LIGHT. THE BEST WAY IS TO KEEP THEM SAFE IN A FOAM STORAGE CASE SUCH AS A KAISER RUSHFORTH (KR) MULTICASE.Games Workshop's White Dwarf 160 April 1993 informed that this Naval battle game had been released. Geoff Taylor actually did the front page artwork for that issue of the magazine and his full Acrylic on Artboard painting, which is 83 x 66 cm, is just great. The full piece can be seen on the boxed set. He has done some really fantastic stuff for Games Workshop, some of which really brings back some memories for me. Other artists involved with this production were Dave Andrews, David Gallagher, John Blanche and Wayne England. This game of sea battles was designed by Andy Jones, Bill King and Nigel Stillman. Man O War was mentioned back in White Dwarf 143 November 1991. This had a two page article on Man O War, informing people that it was an upcoming game that was being played and tested at Gamesday that year. That article referred to it as Man O War, but later it was referred to Man O’ War, and also Man O’ War. Most people simplify it to MOW. The actual original term Man of War or Man-O-War was the British Royal Navy’s expression for a powerful warship or frigate from around the 16th to the 19th century. It was usually used to describe a sail ship armed with cannons as opposed to a galley which is propelled by oars. In the game though there were various ships including galleys with oars, paddle ships and also ironclad vessels powered by steam. You even had submarines. I believe a general outlook on the Man O War term would be for a powerful heavily armed battleship, armed with both cannon and also troops (Marines). These armed soldiers would have been referred to as Men of War and this is believed to be where the phrase comes from. A vessel housing these troops would be referred to as a Men of Warship, then the phrase just being shortened and changing slightly as it was spoken often. This table top high seas war game was supported through 1993 and 1994 with miniatures being brought out for it throughout this period. I believe the miniatures were designed by Dave Andrews, Kevin Adams (Kev Adams), Michael Perry (one half of the Perry twins) and Norman Swales. All these great little metal miniatures can be seen on this excellent page here: http://www.collecting-citadel-miniatures.com/wiki/index.php/Man_O%27War Any sea warfare historians will note that they take their inspiration from different periods of history, but hey, it's fantasy! Although these Citadel miniatures could look rather plain, as soon as you got the printed sails on them, they really livened up as models. Please be aware that the masts on the Man O'War ships always were incredibly fragile for a naval battle! People realised that even handling the miniatures in normal gameplay could break them. Due to this a lot of people started to put the ships on their own bases to prevent this (as they never came with any originally), so they could be handled easier. Some people would make these bases magnetic with special tape, or use punched steel plates (you can buy these enamel coated, which is advisable as they’ll rust). The magnetic tape will easily adhere to the trays in a metal toolbox (heavier models may slide or be an issue), or line a container with strips of magnetic tape. I think you'll find tape on the base is cheaper as you'll use less of it. Personally I'd use Neodymium magnets on the bases as they really grip better. The ships actually have a recess in the bottom of them, as this saved costs in their manufacture because less metal was used to make them. There are some excellent specialist miniature carriage cases out there, KR being one of them. But even if the models are in a foam compartment, due to the weight of the metal of the ships body, acting on the plastic mast, you could still get breakage. Take note and do your research on the forums, as there are hard core fans playing this game, and I think you'll find that there are actually guidelines for the unofficial base sizes that they all agree on so games are fair and consistent. As you can see the miniatures came in really nice little boxes. Each boat had the metal miniature and a mast and yard plastic sprue. These were good as this was a standard sprue one size fits all in each box. It included all the bits for all the ships that were available, so you ended up having spares, which was good for any breakages that could occur. Each box also had a really nice colour printed sails sheet for them with banners and pennants on it as well. There was a good little choice so you could pick what you wanted, and some even had blanks that you could paint up or colour in yourself. That little bit of thought in designing these inserts, just made it that little bit special. If you are painting your own sails, then look out some canvas paper. This gives them a very nice woven cloth texture. It's little details like that, that make a great little miniature. The boxed set was titled Man O’ War Raging Sea Battles in the World of Warhammer because this nautical wargame was set in the Warhammer Fantasy realm and included many of the factions from the setting. Including all the supplements that came out, you could set sail with Bretonnia, Chaos Dwarfs, Chaos Plaguefleets (Khorne, Nurgle, Slaanesh, and Tzeentch), Dark Elves, Dwarfs, Empire, High Elves, Norse, Orcs, Pirate fleets of Sartosa and Skaven warships. There were races of the Warhammer world that were not included. Possibly because they were not seafaring. The Wood Elves were notably absent, perhaps because you need to chop down trees for the wood to build ships although even the underground dwelling Skaven had a Navy. The boxed game included twelve plastic galleys, so you could get to grips with the rules and all the card scenery and templates that you needed for battles out there in the deep waters, or what the Orks call, The Big Bloo. You played the Admiral of an ocean-going war fleet and you could have a game with only a small fleet of ships, which they were quick to paint up. You could get a good game with only 6 or 12 sea ships each. The game had a simplistic rules system (although there are fan written advanced sailing rules out there), that made it easy to get into. It used basic game moves that you would find in naval games, such as boarding action, ramming and sailing speed depending on wind direction. Each ship had a printed template showing different areas of the ship that you as Naval Officer kept track of various game details on, such as damage taken, crew and any onboard fires. These cards had counters that you’d put on them and took up quite a bit of space on the gaming table. So much that it could get to the point where you’d be moving them out the way of your sea going craft and for larger games would need another table to put them all on. Ships are classified as Independent (IND), Ship of the Line (SOL), which were operated in squadrons of three, and Man O' War (MOW) which were the most powerful ships in the game. This is the ship that housed your Admiral and Wizard (if you had one). Games Workshop did two expansions to the game. The first added six new fleets and was called Plaguefleet. This added everything that you needed for a Chaos fleet of Khorne, Nurgle, Slaanesh and Tzeentch. These Chaos factions were grouped together and referred to as a Plaguefleet, hence the expansions name. It included details for the Chaos Dwarfs and Skaven and also included nice colour templates for the earlier races that were available. The second MOW expansion was called Sea of Blood. This had the rules for Allies, Sea Monsters and Beasts. The game was limited to a few ship types, so the addition of these creatures really added to the game. The Sea Monsters and Beasts that were included were the Behemoth, Black Leviathan, Gargantuan, Kraken, Megaladon, Promethean, Sea Dragon, Sea Elemental and Triton. This expansion also dealt with air power. Flyers included Air balloons and Gyrocopters. The 2nd expansion also had a few additional ships for the Dwarfs, Imperial fleets and also had details of the Norse fleet in there. Plaguefleet is argued on various forums to have unbalanced the game, and even without it included in your game, it could be said that some factions are not balanced fairly, but you cannot argue that these additions did not add further interest and a different level to the game itself. I think you’ll find that both these expansions were developed at the same time that the boxed set was, but released later. This could have occurred to retain visibility over the period, and thus maintain interest and the sales that would go with that, or perhaps if the game did not take off and do well, then any losses would be reduced. Perhaps a mix of both, which would be very good business. I’ve got to mention Dreadfleet in here somewhere, and I don’t want to end on it. GW came up with the Dread fleet game in 2011. In this sea warfare game each player controlled a single ship of their own, but you could have up to five in total. It was more boardgame related, than what I would look upon as a tactical wargame. For me a war game involves many more game pieces, giving it much more depth and possibilities. I played Dreadfleet once, but it seemed very set in its approach. Even though it had good artwork, a great name, nice miniatures, it didn’t really enthuse me and would not be something that I’d go back to and play again.Man O’ War was well supported, for the release period, with articles in White Dwarf from issue 160 April 1993 through to WD 175 July 1994. Some nice background and cards that you could print off for the game. You’ll also find some additional rules articles written up in the Citadel Journal, including complete rules for an Undead fleet. Although you will not find any Citadel miniatures, from that period, to use them. Games Workshop will go back over their Specialist Games range though, so if naval battle floats your boat, then keep an eye out, as who’s to tell what later releases will occur. The game had its support stopped in 1995, but there were still items available after this date via mail order in the US, as supplies gradually ran down. It is said that you couldn’t get items for it after 1998. A shame, but as I said, who knows what the future holds. Regards the above link, thank you to the individuals involved for taking the time to make that information available for people. An excellent and detailed resource. SHOP LINK: Hygienic Porridge Miniature Emporium Thanks for looking. I only post to the invoice address. Please read postage, packaging, returns and payment details prior to bidding. Item is in good condition, unless otherwise stated. There may be residual paint on it, all miniatures have been washed to remove any residual chemical paint stripper, but I advise washing in soapy water with a toothbrush prior to painting, due to handling. I'm a collector, and honest seller, with excellent feedback. If there is an issue, then please contact to discuss, prior to leaving poor feedback. WARNING. This is not a children's toy. It is a collectable for adults and is not recommended for young children under the age of 14 years old. Use of the product is at the user’s own risk, who by purchasing accepts responsibility from the point of receipt. CHOKING HAZARD, may contain small parts. Please be aware that the items, and the packaging that they are received in, are a choking hazard and may restrict breathing. They may pose a DANGER OF SUFFOCATION so please either store or dispose of packaging carefully. Do not ingest and keep away from small children. Items received may contain Lead and other metals, do not place in the mouth or swallow as it may be harmful if eaten or chewed. Wash your hands after handling and keep away from foodstuffs. Use of gloves is advisable in handling, especially if you have allergies to the product. Items and parts sold may have sharp points, edges or a cutting blade, be aware and avoid puncture injury to the eyes. Store carefully as items may be a slip, trip or fall hazard.

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